Let it age and your patience will be rewarded Print

Globe and Mail, a Canadian newspaper ran a nice article on Camembert style cheese made by the Upper Canada Cheese Company. Please see below.

Let it age and your patience will be rewarded.

21st January 2009 Written by Sue Riedl

Patience is a virtue when it comes to a ripening cheese - especially in the case of Comfort Cream, a camembert-style treat from Upper Canada Cheese Co.

Wait until it has passed its "best before" date and you'll be rewarded with a ripe, decadent and runny golden paste (the trade-off is that the rind may have slightly deteriorated). Made from the high-fat milk of Guernsey cows, this cheese is as rich in flavour as it is in appearance.

Upper Canada Cheese Co., started in 2005, gets its milk from a single herd of Guernsey cows owned by Comfort farm, which is located about 15 minutes from the cheese maker in Ontario's Niagara region.

The milk is picked up first thing in the morning and dropped off at Upper Canada before the delivery truck continues on its regular route, collecting milk from other farms to be pooled into a single batch and redistributed to other creameries.

What sets the milk apart is its rich yellow colour - the result of elevated beta-carotene levels. It also has more protein and vitamin A and D than that of the more commonly bred Holstein cows.

The golden Guernsey breed, originally from the British Channel Island of the same name, was introduced to North America in the 19th century and officially imported to Canada by future prime minister Sir John Abbott in 1878.

Comfort Cream is aged for a minimum of four weeks in the Upper Canada cellars before being sold, but cheese maker Daryl Vanden Dogert prefers it at about six weeks of age, when the acidity has levelled off and the cheese has softened but still has some "centre" (density). For a delicious meal, he recommends baking it until melted (at 400-450 F about seven minutes). The cheese is ready when a knife can pierce the rind without resistance.

But before you toast a wheel for your Oscar party, mollify the cheese purist in your conscience and enjoy Comfort Cream as is. It would be a shame to miss tasting this handmade cheese in original form. Simply bring it to room temperature to fully appreciate the silky texture and buttery, mushroom-like flavours.

And for a Guernsey-milk encore, try fresh Guernsey Gold Ricotta created from whey drained from cheese making.

That may be the best use of leftovers ever.

Sue Riedl studied at the Cordon Bleu in London.


On the block

Cheese Comfort Cream

Origin Jordan Station, Ont.

Producer Upper Canada Cheese

Cheese maker Daryl Vanden Dogert

Milk pasteurized Guernsey cow

Type soft, bloomy rind, uncooked, unpressed, aged minimum four weeks

Shape 240-gram wheel

Notes The ricotta is available in Toronto at Pusateri's, Summerhill Market, Thin Blue Line Cheese and All the Best Fine Foods

Distributors Glen Echo Fine Food, Provincial Fine Foods

Availability Ontario only

Toronto: Summerhill Market, Pusateri's, Culinarium and Cheese Outlet

Dundas: Picone's Food Market

St. Catharines: Olson Foods

Kitchener: Vincenzo's

London: Smith Cheese

Sue Riedl

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Let it age and your patience will be rewarded
Thursday, 22 January 2009
Globe and Mail, a Canadian newspaper ran a nice article on Camembert style cheese made by the Upper Canada Cheese Company. Please see below. Let it...

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